Guide Rod Kit
Guide Rod Kit
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 1911 Colt, 5 inch 2 pc guide rod system -Full length SS  US $24.95
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 WILSON COMBAT 2-Piece Guide Rod & Plug Kit US $33.99
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Quick background, I had a slight shimmy in my 1.8TQMS. In the hunt, I made a fool proof check the wheel bearings. This is where you have the car on jack and try to move the steering wheel. There should not be playing. I found that I can move the wheel back and forth (in 9.3 hands on the steering wheel), a substantial quantities. Well looking around I found it:
You can see the damage. I went to the ESC Tuning and bought them a set of Tie rod ends for both sides, plus new equipment, shipped for less than $ 100. I would rate this task quite easy second If the timing belt job is 7 or 8 There are no real tools or skills are required.
Attention! I'm not a mechanic, and is probably not for you if you read this. This Article, if only general guidelines and if you break yourself or your car is your fault!
What you need:
Jack-Jack and stands
Torque wrench
14 and 16 mm socket
18mm and 22 mm box end (22mm crows feet, however, recommend, I got one for $ 3 at Autozone)
ruler or other device measurement.
What else can I use?
Blue thread lock, silver, anti-seizure
Channel Locks
Hex key set
Once Bently CD as a guide, but remember, if you use it, that his description is to remove all TIE ROD not just end. It has an excellent diagram of how things go, and of course the appropriate torque settings.
Socket on the car and remove the wheel. If you have not seen s Andy_TN "outstand pics proper jack / jack stand points here it is.
Getting to work
1st Jack a car and do it in the stands. Although it is safer then leaving the position you have to nest. From the lower control arm, jack the whole suspension of the backup, so this is a return to "normal" height. it will make it much easier to remove things and make sure everything is lined back later.
2nd Next measure the distance from the back of the tie rod to the nut. You need to know to rebuild. A more precise this measurement is better. I had to customize my car after this procedure, but the tech said the toe-in was fine, so if you're careful here You do not have to fork out for compensation.
3rd Use your 22mm end of the field or crows foot, loosen the lock nut. Rod Clamp 18mm end of the tape box directly, or you can do as I did and grab the channel locks CAUTION, do not damage the adjustment 18mm hex, as it which is used to set the fingers in a car. Nut only goes to 30 ft / lbs of torque off so easily.
4th Remove the top 14 mm jack nuts and bolts of 16mm. Nuts, bolts site is have their own, like him back, will try to turn, simply hold it in (to himself), and the back nut. Remove and discard the old equipment with the exception of nuts. (You have a set of hardware as I said yes!)
5th Pull firmly on the tie rod, it will be very tight, you can wedge something between the control group and the structure of a suspension if are locked. I managed to delete my only slight wiggling the rod, and I undressed. Once it is loose, just loosen the tie rod with the hex adjustment.
6th Take the nut and thread the rod back with a new bond at a distance, measured in step 2, plus one or two rotations. This is the place where once a little silver, anti-seizure on complex subjects of the new tie rod ends, then thread back through the tie rod adjustment hex, back to the nuts. Measure again, and finger tighten the nut.
7th Make sure the groove in the vertical position of the new end of the rod is aligned, side where the screws go. This is where the large hex key or hex socket is useful to turn in a vertical position. Now restart the tie rod in. Again will be very tight, a little wiggling will be necessary. Avoid the temptation to hit it, because this is where the actual joint is. Adjustable jack stand and a little down can help. Also, if the measurement is accurate it is perhaps not a problem as simply must be exactly in line with the hole.
8th Now you can replace the nuts and bolts to the top of the page. I looked all through Bentley and could not find a specific point value turnover for these two. They have not been particularly strong there, when I took them, so I used 30lbs, with a few drops of blue thread lock.
9th Tighten the nuts to 30lbs (if you are connected to the crows foot torque wrench) or "quite heavily" in the case of using the key end of the field.
All done! Replace the wheel, and not the other side. It's not just get rid of the shimmy, but also on the front feel much harder. The first page had about 30 minutes, when things figured out, and about 10 others.